I have been here just over two weeks and am beginning to experience at least some restoration of my cognitive ability.  I have enjoyed Pam's delicious cooking -- as well as the products of her fattoria -- been part of a festive sunset tableau photographed by Travel and Leisure magazine for the July issue, cooked successfully for the family and guests (thank god), helped Alaia with her homework and listened to her declarations of love for teen heartthrob Justin Bieber, gone shopping numerous times with Courtney (you only handle produce with a plastic glove before weighing, bagging, and labeling your purchase), and assisted at a Montepulciano market crawl and lunch for an adorable honeymoon couple (both US-educated working for progressive NGO's) from Hong Kong, among other fun activities.  Tomorrow Pam and I head north to interview some local artisans for Pam's new book.  On the way we will stop in Siena for my first look at the duomo and overnight we will stay at an untouristy spa.  Then we're off to the Cinque Terre with one of Pam's groups for a week of hiking, food education, and more eating.  Next, a couple of waves of friends from home arrive (if undeterred by Icelandic volcano!).  The weather has been unsettled, but I will bring my bathing suit and hope for nice beach weather at the Cinque Terre.